TRUE TRAVEL

by Tirekicking Today

SAN CRISTOBAL de las CASAS, Chiapas, Mexico - Anyone who’s seen Carnival parades and festivities in Rio de Janeiro, in Barcelona or elsewhere in Europe–or in Veracruz–would be totally unprepared for the annual fiesta in San Juan Chamula, located just six miles outside of San Cristobal de las Casas, in Chiapas. Though often called a village, San Juan Chamula is actually a government center that serves a large group of indigenous Mayan communities, extending for miles around.

Most residents wear traditional Mayan dress, including fuzzy black skirts and distinctive colorful tops for women and comparably fuzzy jackets for men. Whether a men’s garb is black or white depends upon his status in the community.

No photos are included here, apart from a tourism photo supplied by the Le Gite del Sol hostel/B&B. That’s because the indigenous Mayan people do not appreciate picture-taking in their villages–especially at times of religious celebration. In fact, as or exceptionally knowledgeable guide Rodrigo explained, the Mayan community has its own laws. Mexican authorities have only limited powers to step in and handle disputes or misbehavior. Break a rule here–such as taking pictures–and you’re likely to have your camera confiscated, if not worse.

Even so, we observed more than one extranjero (foreigner) with a camera held high in the air. Either they’re unaware of the restrictions, or they’re so tied to their cameras that they just can’t help themselves.

Though it’s often referred to as Carnival, because it takes place on the same day as Carnival in other parts of the world–in Christian regions–it’s not the same at all. Despite all the lively activities that take place as the day wears on, accompanied by considerable public drunkenness, this is basically a solemn religious celebration. However, this is a religion that has little relation to Christianity or any other familiar means of communicating with the Almighty. As Rodrigo explained, it’s quite complicated but in effect, each person in the Mayan communities has his or her own religion.

Much of the day is spent waiting for the actual festivities to begin, because there’s no prescribed starting time. Local government officials are standing on a balcony of the principal government building, overlooking the assembled crowd. While they wait, many visitors get a look inside the church–probably the most unique church in all of Mexico. No pews are to be seen. No priests or ministers; no “service” in the conventional sense. What you see are burning candles, spread throughout the floor–which may be sprinkled with pine needles.

Outside on this final Carnival day, a group of colorfully costumed revelers begins to run around the main square, yelling intensely. They’re not calling out in Spanish, either. Mayans in Chiapas have their own languages, led by Tzeltal and Tzotzil. in the Tzotzil language that's heard in San Juan Chamula, the annual celebration is called Kinta Jimultik.

Purification rites are part of the day's events. What everyone appears to have been waiting for, the main attraction, is a series of runs through burning branches. One man after another takes his turn, crossing a section of the square that’s filled with the smoking, fiery tree branches.

That’s not the most dangerous activity of the day, though. One of the customs is to let loose a group of bulls, letting them run randomly through the streets adjacent to the square. Later on, we learned that after we’d left the area, several bulls were indeed released, and one unfortunate fellow was gored.

This visit, in March 2011, was our second observation of Carnival in San Juan Chamula. A year earlier, on the very same Carnival day, we’d first had the pleasure of taking Rodrigo’s tour. Though it’s easy enough to get to San Juan Chamula on your own, taking a colectivo van from the market area in San Cristobal de las Casas, you’ll learn vastly more by signing up for Rodrigo’s tour, letting him lead the way. Rodrigo has been conducting tours for 15 years, and taught himself the local language along the way. He knows countless people in San Juan Chamula, which makes it possible to experience things that would be unavailable if arriving on your own. Tours with Rodrigo may be arranged through several hotels and hostels, including our own lodging, Le Gite del Sol. Accept no substitutes.