TRUE TRAVEL

by Tirekicking Today

SAN CRISTOBAL de las CASAS, Chiapas, Mexico - Early in 2010, we were so taken with this easygoing colonial city in a two-week stay, that we came back again in 2011 for more than four weeks.

Not much is different from our year-ago report. A few restaurants have disappeared, and others have sprouted. One of the two movie theaters - small ones that project older DVDs on a screen - moved to a new, more convenient location. A conventional cineplex has opened, but we haven't seen it as yet because it's a bit of a distance from the historic center. That's where we spend nearly all of our time.

Zocalos (main squares) in most Mexican cities and towns are lovely places, and the one in San Cristobal is among the most compelling. Surprisingly comfortable iron benches are spread around the square, inviting passersby to stop for a few minutes, or even a few hours. Most of the time, music is playing: recorded songs in the daytime, and live music at night. Evening musicians play on the upper level of the central bandstand (downstairs is a small cafe). Now and then, a separate set of musicians or performers sets up at the edge of the Zocalo, but nobody seems to mind the conflict between sounds.

At any time during the day, a parade might suddenly turn up. Or, a presentation or performance will begin, right in the Zocalo. Nearly always, they're free and open to everyone. During the past week, several presentations have focused on children's education. San Cristobal is a very politically aware community.

Some guidebooks claim that San Cristobal is not a prized destination for food, though at least one notes that it's the best in Chiapas for culinary treats. Choices for appetizing and modestly-priced meals and snacks are many, but apart from one high-end French restaurant and a couple of other ethnic estbalishments, fine dining is not the rule here. What is fine are the restaurants that still serve a comida corrida (more often called the menu del dia nowadays. This is a fixed-price meal, typically including soup, rice, a main course, and postre (dessert), often priced between 50 and 65 pesos (about $4.50 to $6.00). Mexico used to be loaded with eateries offering the comida corrida; but in many areas, they seem to be fading away lately in favor of ala carte choices.

You can get either ala carte items or a menu del dia at La Cueva del Tigre, located near the end of the Real de Guadalupe walkway. In addition to a satisfying 65-peso daily special, the six-table La Cueva offers superior service from young waitresses with some of the friendliest smiles you’re likely to find anywhere. Distinctive decorations in the colorful little spot include an antique radio at each table.

Early in our month-long stay during March-April 2011, a new restaurant opened just half a block east of the end of the Real de Guadalupe pedestrian walkway, near our hostel/B&B. Simply called "Thai Food" (Comida Thai), it provides about the closest thing you'll find to a home-cooked meal in San Cristobal. An excellent Thai meal, at that. Run by a delightful Thai woman and one associate, it's a tiny place with just three small tables. A tinier-yet counter has several stools, but no one above child-size is likely to comfortable on them. As soon as the food arrives, though, you're sure to forget all about any minor physical discomfort or the nearness of other diners.

Only four or five items are available each day, including such familiar fare as Pad Thai and curries, along with less-common meals. We were informed one day by Sutharee, the chef, that our flavorful ground pork salad qualified as a typical meal in Thailand. For 60 pesos (about $5.25) or less, this is one of the best culinary bets in town, and we hope it gets plenty of notice.

Another of our favorites, still thriving, is TierraDentro, a large place with a covered central patio. Operated by supporters of the Zapatista movement, which took hold in 1994, TierraDentro is the site of various meetings, exhibitions, and performances. One foreign visitor had described it as an intellectual "hangout," which is largely true (busy young people with laptops occupy many of the tables during the day), but cultural center is perhaps the better description.

In May 2011, TierraDentro will exhibit the work of photographer Jon Bertelli. An Italian, Bertelli spent two years in Mexico finding and photographing some of the few remaining members of the original Zapatista movement: the followers of Emiliano Zapata, during the Revolution that began in 1910. Bertelli says the youngest still-living member was 99 years old when photographed. Meanwhile, Bertelli's Zapatista photographs may be viewed at www.jonbertelli.com.

Emiliano’s Moustache has a rather curious name, but appealing 50-peso daily specials, usually served by an especially courteous and gentlemanly waiter. Photos of the revolutionary leader decorate the walls of this mid-sized restaurant, two short blocks from the Zocalo.

When a takeaway sandwich sounds appealing, it’s hard to beat Quebaguettes, a one-man shop just a block north of the end of Guadalupe walkway. The only trouble with his carefully-created baguettes is that they’re awfully big.

San Cristobal has a thriving arts community, centered around the Centro Cultural Carmen. Late in our 2011 stay, a week-long arts festival opened up, including lectures, exhibitions, dances, and more. On another day, at noontime, an exceptionally lively and colorful Danza Folklorico took place on a stage set up next to the Zocalo. Dancers of all ages, attired in various forms of traditional dress, held nothing back in their recreations of meaningful and ofteh amusing presentations from an earlier time in Mexican history. Feet were flying, and long dresses waving back and forth like flags in the wind, as the performers demonstrated their well-honed talents and their physical stamina.

Most notable, everyone involved with the Danza Folklorico appeared to be having a good time. That included the mid-day audience–some of them seated in the shade on folding chairs, others standing in the sun to get the best views.

Labor and politically-oriented gatherings turn up often in front of the main municipal building, which adjoins the Zocalo, as well as in other locales around the city. Still, nothing beats simply spending time in and around the Zocalo, occupying one of those inviting benches for as long as you please.