Chiapas presents different view of Mexico

San Cristobal de las Casas draws tourists for its beauty, anthropologists for its indigeneous culture, and activists for its Zapatista connection

by James M. Flammang

Updated: April 22, 2010

Peaceful Zocalo (main square) is best place
for people-watching and relaxing

SAN CRISTOBAL DE LAS CASAS, Mexico - Mention the Mexican state of Chiapas to most Americans and Canadians, and if they've heard of it at all, they probably recall the Zapatista movement that sprouted in this picturesque highland city in 1994. Although the issues forced into public awareness by the Zapatistas - named for Emiliano Zapato, the famed leader of the Mexican Revolution a century ago - haven't been remedied more than partially, the Zapatistas have faded somewhat into the background. Yet, they're far from forgotten, The masked countenance of their ostensible leader, sub-comandante Marcos, and those of other movement leaders (especially women) are commonly seen on everything from picture postcards to hand-woven bags and scarves.

Some sixteen years ago, the Zocalo (main square) erupted into gunfire, as the Zapatistas clashed with federal troops. Now, the tree-laden Zocalo is a peaceful spot for bench-sitting and enjoying the quiet aura of this lovely city. Evenings may even bring out a musical group or two, which can draw some couples out of their chairs onto an impromptu dance floor.

Tourists generally keep a low profile in picturesque San Cristobal de las Casas, high in the Chiapas mountains (altitude: near 7,000 feet). Despite a fairly constant flow of people along each of the pedestrian streets, and in the Zocalo itself, not so many appear to be gringos. English words are heard only sporadically.

Those who are from the U.S. and Canada don’t stand out as much as they do in some Mexican communities, such as San Miguel de Allende. For one thing, they're generally quieter and less demanding. Quite a few, too, appear to have at least a partially serious motivation for being here. Yes, there's a club and drinking scene. But visitors to this region seem likely to have more interest in the archaeological resurrections, or the culture of the indigenous Mayan people, than in "happy hour" shots of tequila or mezcal on the pedestrian-only pathways right off the Zocalo.

If you’re staying at a Bed & Breakfast or hotel that caters to foreigners, you may be surrounded by Americans at breakfast time. Otherwise, don’t expect to see all that many ambling around town.

Not everyone realizes it upon arrival, but amber is a major product of the Chiapas region. Jewelry stores are loaded with pieces crafted of the mineral, and an Amber Museum - just a few blocks from the Zocalo - gives an informative rundown on how the substance is mined and developed into artifacts.

Probably the best-known spot to visit in San Cristobal, though, is Na Bolom - a combination anthropological museum, library, restaurant, and place of lodging not too far from the central area.

Because San Cristoba de la Casas no longer has an airport, it's not the easiest Mexican city to get to. Visitors typically fly to Tuxtla Gutierrez, an hour and a half away by bus. Rather than fly, we took an overnight bus from Mexico City's east terminal. The 14-hour trip is most comfortable if you pay an extra premium for a deluxe bus, which has more comfortable seats and additional facilities for the 14-hour journey. Our ADO express bus made only two stops during the trip: at Puebla and again at Tuxtla Gutierrez.

Note: Many additional details on Chiapas and San Cristobal will be posted soon, including coverage of Carnaval festivities in the nearby Mayan center of San Juan Chamula, on February 16, 2010.


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Text and photos by James M. Flammang